Visa Renewal

Applying to extend my residence visa ranks as a bad day in Egypt. From standing in lines, to standing in wrong lines, visiting three offices, and elbowing to retain my place in line, I got the impression that far more people and documents enter than can ever hope to leave. People say if each person entering the building was fined one pound, we could pay off Egypt's national debt within the year.

Image from http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/mugamma.htm:

City of the Dead

Originally built to house the bodies of higher up people, the tombs were so big and luxurious that squatters moved in. Cairo has finally recognized the squatters as a community, so schools are being built. The community is also home to a few drug lords, so the police refuse to come to this district.

When we walked around, kids had taken over the wide streets for their soccer games. The neighborhood is beautiful—less crowded than the city, and everyone lives in huge cavernous stone crypts. Most crypts are built around a central courtyard that’s open air with palm trees and flowers. Some of the architecture reminded me of Spanish hacienda style barns with eucalyptus trees bursting through the roof.